Growing Plants from Seed March 28, 2007

When should you start seeds indoors? That depends on the type of seed and the last expected frost date for your area. Frost dates are averages and are given as a range of dates. Once you know your last expected frost date, your seed package should tell you how many weeks ahead you should start the seeds. Count back from the last expected frost date for each type of seed you are planting and you’ll have a planting schedule.

Example

If you live in Zone 6 (Frost Free Date Range March 30 - April 30) and you want to plant broccoli, which should be started 5-7 weeks before the Frost Free Date, count back 7 weeks from March 30th to February 9th. That’s the earliest you should consider starting your broccoli seeds. If it seems like it will be an early spring, go ahead and start planting then.

However, you would probably be better off averaging the dates to April 15th and counting back from there. Holding the seedlings for a couple of weeks before transplanting won’t be as stressful on them as holding them for an entire month.

Last Expected Frost Dates by Zone

• Zone 1: June1 - June 30
• Zone 2: May 1 - May 31
• Zone 3: May 1 - May31
• Zone 4: May 1 - May31
• Zone 5: March 30 - April30
• Zone 6: March 30 - April30
• Zone 7: March 30 - April30
• Zone 8: February 28 - March 30
• Zone 9: January 30 - February 28
• Zone 10: January 1 - January 31
• Zone 11 Frost Free Year Round

If you are not sure of your Zone or wnat more specifics on your Frost Free Date, check the USDA Hardiness Zone Map or contact your local Cooperative Extension. Here’s a list of commonly planted flowers, vegetables and herbs and how many weeks before that Last Frost Date to start them.

Now that you know your last expected frost date, count back from the last expected frost date for each type of seed you are planting and you’ll have a planting schedule. If your plant is not listed here, check the back of your seed package for seed starting recommendations.

Example From Prior Page

If you live in Zone 6 (Frost Free Date Range March 30 - April 30) and you want to plant broccoli, which should be started 5-7 weeks before the Frost Free Date, count back 7 weeks from March 30th to February 9th. That’s the earliest you should consider starting your broccoli seeds. If it seems like it will be an early spring, go ahead and start planting then. However, you would probably be better off averaging the dates to April 15th and counting back from there.

Holding the seedlings for a couple of weeks before transplanting won’t be as stressful on them as holding them for an entire month.

Recommended # of Weeks to Start Seeds, Prior to Frost Free Date

Vegetable	# Weeks	Flowers	# weeks	Herbs	# Weeks
Artichoke	10/12	Ageratum	6-8	Basil	6-8
Broccoli	5-7	Alyssum	8-12	Catnip	8-12
Brussels Sprouts	5-7	Batchelor Button	4-6	Chamomile	8-12
Cabbage	5-7	Calendula	6-8	Chervil	6-8
Cantaloupe	3-4	Coleus	12-14	Chives	12-14
Cauliflower	5-7	Dahlia	4-6	Coriander	6-8
Celery	7-12	Daisy	6-8	Dill	6-8
Chinese Cabbage	5-7	Fuchsia	18-20	Feverfew	8-12
Collards	5-7	Godetia	4-6	Lemon Balm	6-8
Cucumbers	3-4	Impatiens	12-14	Mint	12-14
Eggplant	6-8	Lobelia	12-14	Oregano	12-14
Kale	4-6	Marigold	5-6	Parsley	12-14
Leeks	10-12	Nasturtium	4-6	Sage	6-8
Lettuce	5-7	Nemesia	6-8	Savory	6-8
Okra	2-4	Pansy	12-14	Thyme	8-12
Onion	10-12	Petunia	8-12
Pepper	8-10	Poppy	12-14
Pumpkin	2-4	Snapdragon	8-12
Spinach	6-8	Sweet Pea	8-12
Squash	3-4	Zinnia	5-6
Swiss Chard	6-8
Tomato	6-8
Watermelon	5-7

Article courtesy of: http://gardening.about.com/od/gardenprimer/a/SeedStarting.htm

Winter Wedding Floral Tips January 20, 2007

While it’s true that most weddings take place in spring and summer, many couples choose a winter date for the “big event.”

According to the Society of American Florists, 13 percent of weddings take place in the winter, with 11 percent of those being Christmas weddings. Summer weddings account for 35 percent, spring weddings 29 percent, and autumn weddings 23 percent.

But even though fewer weddings take place in the colder months, that doesn’t mean the winter bride is faced with a limited selection of flowers for her bouquet, the wedding party’s flowers, and floral arrangements for the ceremony and reception. Traditional wedding flowers, including roses, lilies, orchids, and daisies, are available year-round, as are many exotic ones. However, the cost usually is higher for out-of-season or unusual flowers.

When planning a winter wedding, as for a wedding in any season, personal preference–and budget–will play a large part in what you chose for flowers. Some brides pick their favorites or follow the long-standing tradition of an all-white bouquet, symbolizing purity.

Others base their choices on what’s available locally, what complements their color scheme or bridesmaids’ dresses, or on what each flower means. Gardenias symbolize joy, daisies innocence, and roses represent love and happiness, for example. Red tulips say “I love you” while white ones signify “I am worthy of you.”

The colors of the season also come into play in decisions about flowers. Christmas brides often choose red or burgundy as one of their colors, using red roses, carnations, calla lilies, and other red flowers in their bouquets with accents of silver, white, and green, other colors traditionally associated with this holiday.

Poinsettias, amaryllis, and evergreens are popular choices for decorations while holly branches and other plants with red berries are ideal for use in floral arrangements. For a seasonal touch, iridescent or frosted glass balls, snowflake ornaments, and glittery ribbons can be added.

If you choose red or green for the attire of your attendants, bring along a sample of the fabric when you meet with your florist to select your flowers. The “wrong” shade of green foliage or red blossom can clash with a gown of a different shade of the same color. For emerald green, for instance, you’ll want to pick a true red rather than a maroon or burgundy for the bouquets. Limit the amount of green foliage although a variegated leaf might work well.

White is a popular winter color with flower choices including roses, tulips, freesias, hellebores, and mums, among others. But again, it’s important to pick the right white varieties to go with your gown. White flowers come in varying shades from pure white to ivory and even a faint pinkish white. In addition, choosing the right foliage will help the bouquet stand out against the dress.

White can be used as an accent color for a bouquet of darker colored flowers or for floral arrangements and accessories to lighten up a room, especially one lit with candles for a romantic evening wedding. If your gown is beaded, incorporate tiny strings of white beads or pearls into your bouquet and table centerpieces. Frosted glass balls, mirrors, and acrylic icicles can be used as stand-alone decorations or incorporated into arrangements to complement a lacy gown.

Blues and purples, especially in combination with shimmery white, metallic silver, and glittery gold accessories, also create an illusion of winter and are popular with brides seeking a more contemporary look for their winter wedding. For flowers consider iris, freesia, statice, and heather. Or use blue or purple as an accent color, such as for iridescent ribbon on a bouquet or church pew; glass vases or bowls to hold arrangements of sparkly glass balls and greenery; or candles on mirrored surfaces.

These are just a few suggestions for flowers for a winter wedding. For other ideas, browse through bridal and decorating magazines, or ask your local florist what he or she would recommend to help you realize your dream of a perfect wedding day.

Simple Centerpiece December 4, 2006

Above I created a beautiful centerpiece that is very simple to make but still elegant.

Using a crock that I had lying around the house and the purchase of red berries and gold ting ting, I created a very simple centerpiece. As a little extra I also place tealights to either side and at night when the lights are low it looks very romantic. This cost me all of 15.00 dollars by using things that I already had lying around the house.

I hope this will inspire you to make a creation of your own!

Fragrant Orchids November 26, 2006

The following is a list of fragrant orchids:A list of all fragrant orchid species and hybrids would be gigantic, and would always be growing as new hybrids are registered practically every week. In response to some requests, this list has been created as a definitely-not-complete list of orchids that are:

1. Fragrant in a pleasing sense (bulbophyllum fans, you’ll have to look elsewhere!) 2. Not impossible to find at nurseries, orchid shows, and on the web 3. Are generally considered to be easy to grow in the home, average greenhouse, or outdoors for those living in Zones 9-10

I’ve given brief notes about fragrance (faint, strong, day or night), where I can, but for more info, you’ll have to consult some orchid books or ask on the Orchid Forum

Here goes!

Species and hybrid orchids:

Aerangis: most species are miniature and evening fragrant, biloba, citrata, modesta, mystacidii, somalensis are considered easy, most do better mounted.

Aeranthes: a few species are fragrant.

Aerides: most are very fragrant, tall, lanky growth and roots.

Ancistrochilum rothschildianum: mini, deciduous in winter.

Angraecum: most are night fragrant, some are large and highly scented.

Brassavola: most are very night-scented, including the well-known Brassavola nodosa, or “lady of the night” orchid.

Brassia: Huge, spiderlike flowers.

Brassidium: popular, scented brassia hybrids.

Brassocattleyas: crosses between brassavola and cattleya, many are scented, some are intensely scented.

Brassolaocattleyas: Crosses of three different genuses, many are scented.

Bulbophyllum: ambrosia, laxiflorum and odoratissimum are a few small, well-scented species in a group of often foul-smelling orchids.

Catasetum: large, deciduous orchids that bear male or female flowers. Several species are fragrant, including callosum, pileatum and tenebrosum, many well-known hybrids with other genuses are likewise fragrant.

Cattleya: The classic orchid, the most fragrant species are said to be bicolor, dowiana, iricolor, labiata, maxima, mossiae, schilleriana, and warscewiczii Literally thousands of hybrids, many are scented, some intensely so – look for ones with scented species in their background, or ask for the most fragrant ones.

Clowesia: plants lose leaves in the winter, most species and hybrids are scented.

Cochleanthes amazonica, aromatica, discolor: small, must be kept warm and moist.

Coelogyne: many species are scented, some grow quite large. Popular species include cristata, cummingii, dayana, mooreana, ochracea, pandurata.

Cychnoches: large, deciduous orchids, spectacular blooms. Scented species include chlorochilum, warscewiczianum .

Cymbidium: The fragrance of certain asian species – chinensis, ensifolium and kanran – have been written about for thousands of years. Some mini fragrant hybrids have been developed, which may be easier for beginners.

Dendrobium: Another very popular genus, many have tall canes and lose their leaves in winter. Many species and hybrids are scented: popular species include kingianum, loddigesii, monoliforme, nobile, parishii, speciosum Popular scented hybrids include many “nobile-type” hybrids.

Dendrochilum: many are scented, with chains of tiny flowers, including cobbianum, glumacaeum, magnum.

Encyclia: most are scented, including alata, cordigera, dickinsoniana, fragrans, mooreana, patens, phoenicia (chocolate), radiata, tampensis,
A growing number of fragrant hybrids, popular around Mother’s Day.

Epidendrum: includes popular “reed-stem” orchids; fragrant species include ciliare, citrosmum, conopseum, cristatum, falcatum, floribundum, nocturnum, parkinsonianum, stamfordianum.
Some fragrant hybrids.

Gongora: most are small and highly scented, flowers often short-lived.

Haraella odorata: hands down the most popular fragrant miniature orchid on the Orchid Forum.

Holcoglossum: amesianum, yunnanensis are small vanda relatives.

Jumellea: angraecum relatives, popular species include arachnantha, comorensis, confusus.

Laelia: close relatives of cattleyas, most fragrant species include anceps, grandis, jongheana, purpurata.

Laeocattleyas: again, tons of hybrids, many of which are fragrant. Some are also minis, easy for houseplants or under lights.

Leptotes bicolor: small, cute, popular mini.

Lycaste: some very fragrant species, including aromatica and cruenta (both cinnamon-scented), leuchantha, and skinneri.

Maxillarias: generally small, many are fragrant, including camaridii, cucullata, elatior, picta, tenuifolia (coconut-scented), variabilis. Some need cooler temps in summer.

Miltonia: mainly cool growing orchids, fragrant species include spectabilis, warscewiczii and a few scented hybrids, particularly with other genuses.

Neofinetia falcata: mini species, many different cultivars in Japan, highly fragrant.

Oncidium: Flowers like swarms of butterflies. Popular scented species incude cheirophorum, incurvatum, maculatum, ornithorynchum, and some famous hybrids, see below for some.

Osmoglossum pulchellum: the “lily of the valley” orchid, needs cool temps.

Paphiopedilum: very popular “slipper orchids,” most don’t need high light, scented species include delenatii and malipoense and a few hybrids.

Phaius: Small group of terrestrial orchids, grandifolia, pulcher and tankervilleae all scented.
Small number of hybrids, popular outdoors in tropics.

Phalaenopsis: Probably the world’s most popular orchid right now. Needs lower light, long bloom period, fragrant species include bellina, celebensis, shilleriana, stuartiana, violacea.
More fragrant hybrids coming onto the market in recent years.

Phragmipedium: Related to the slipper orchids, grow wet, fragrant species include schlimii.

Rhynchlaelia: digbyana and glauca; both highly fragrant, often used in cattleya-type hybrids.

Rhynchostylis: most are fragrant, including coelestis, gigantea and retusa Often crossed with vandas and other similar orchids to produce scented hybrids

Schoenorchis fragrans: tiny vanda-type.

Sedirea japonica: very fragrant mini, long cultivated in Japan.

Stanhopea: mostly large plants with pendant flowers, blooms only last a few days but are intensely scented. Species include inodora (vanilla), oculata, panamensis, and wardii.

Trichopilia: fragrans, suavis, tortilis are all fragrant.

Tuberolabium kotoense: another popular scented mini

Vanda: big, long aerial roots, harder to grow in the North, smaller scented species include cristata, denisonia, suavis, and tessellata. Thousands of hybrids, some with other genuses, including some scented ones.

Zygopetalum: most species are highly scented; usually found as complex hybrids, many of which also smell fantastic.

And now, a small sampling some of the more popular “named” scented orchid hybrids:

Brassavola ‘Little Stars’ – lots of small, night-scented white flowers.

Brassolaelia ‘Yellow Bird’ – popular, some clones are evening fragrant.

Brassolaeliocattleya. Waianae Leopard `Ching Hua` – very spotted, magenta blooms.

Cychnoches ‘Wine Delight’: deciduous, big red flowers.

Cymbidium Golden Elf ‘Sundust’ – mini (for a cymbidium), blooms multiple times a year (citrus).

Darwinara ‘Charm’ – mini vanda

Gerberara ‘Snow Ballet’ – complex cattleya type, long blooming season.

Iwanagaara ‘Appleblossom’ – Cattleya type, multiple blooms

Laeliocatleya. Irene Finney – a classic spring-blooming lavender-colored orchid.

Neostylis ‘Lou Sneary’ – very popular mini Oncidium ‘Fragrance Fantasy,’ Sharry Baby “Sweet Fragrance” (Chocolate/vanilla), ‘Sweet Sugar’,‘Twinkle’

Potinara ‘Free Spirit’ – small cattleya hybrid, yellow flowers.

Potinara Halona Chocolate ‘Red Beauty’ – bright red flowers.

Zygopetalum ‘Artur Elle’ – fall bloomer, intensely fragrant.

Orchid Care October 31, 2006

I sometimes get the impression that people feel orchids are very fussy and hard to grow. I thought I would share some basic orchid care tips incase you have/want one for yourself. 

Light and Ventilation:
Most cultivated orchids can be grown in a sunny window or under lights. Either plant lights or a combination of cool white (fluorescent) and warm white will do. Many orchid enthusiasts grow their plants in or near a window with supplemental lighting. Orchids need humidity levels of 45-65%, easily obtained on pebble trays. Fill a tray with stones and water. Set the plants on the stones so that the pot bottoms rest just above the water line. Misting on sunny days will help, just be sure that plants are dry by evening. Orchids do best with good ventilation, as do most house plants. You could use a small fan to provide extra ventilation if needed.

Water:
Orchids need good drainage and should be watered only when dry. Many orchids have pseudobulbs which store water like succulents and cactus. Orchids with pseudobulbs (such as Cattleyas) should go totally dry between watering. Orchids without pseudobulbs (such as phalaenopsis, vandas, and paphiopedilums) should be watered when moderately dry. Orchids use more water when they are actively growing. As with all house plants, water the orchid until water is flowing from the bottom of the pot. When watering orchids, use water that is warm or room temperature. Feeding every other watering is suggested at a rate of 1/4 tsp. per gallon for most orchids. Plants that are actively growing should be fed 20-20-20. Plants that are completing their new growth should be fed 10-30-20 (high in phosphorus and potassium).

Orchids require different light intensities and indoor (winter)  :
Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums require filtered sun or bright indirect light in winter, shade in summer, and night temperatures of 60-65° F and most of the Cattleyas alliance (Laelia, Sophronitis, etc.) require at least 1/2 day full sun in the winter months, filtered sun during the summer, and a night temp. of 55-60°.

Vandas require a south window and a night temp. of 55-65°. Cymbidiums require as much sun as possible and night temperatures of 50-58°, providing their flower spikes are set. Orchids grow best when summered outdoors. Move all plants out under shade in mid-May. Cymbidiums and Vandas should be gradually moved to a spot where they will receive all but the hot midday sun. They will tolerate even that by late August.

Cattleyas should be gradually moved to receive almost as much sun. Hang them where leaves will shade them at midday. Keep Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums suspended in total shade. Bring phals and paphs in after they have received at least two weeks of 50° night temperatures in autumn, Cattleyas after 45-50°, and cymbidiums 35° F.

My personal experience with orchids are that they are very hardy. I have mine sitting in a window and I water then once a week and every two weeks with fertilizer in the water. I currently have five orchids and haven’t killed one yet. My mother who has the black thumb of death and hasn’t killed her orchids (2) yet. Trust me, if she can grow one anyone can!

Funny Faces October 25, 2006

With Halloween just around the corner, I’m sure many of you have already purchased pumpkins for carving. Especially those of you with children.

Carving faces into pumpkins was definitely one of my favorite activities as a child. Being the traditionalist that I am, I would always carve the standard face onto the pumpkin. Something along this line:

Anymore, I see so many different creative faces that people carve into pumpkins. It’s like a form of art!

While browsing the internet today (instead of working, of course!) I found this neat site that has instructions and patterns to use for carving your little piece of art. It even gives the history of jack-o-lanterns. How about that?!

Happy Carving Everyone!

Great Autumn Color! October 13, 2006

Here are a few plants that will give your garden great Autumn color!

Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’)  

The plumes of this ornamental grass appear in summer and keep going for months. Winter Hardy in Zone 5 and warmer.

 

Aster ‘Alma Potschke’

Beautiful Red flowers on an extremely hardy plant! Zone 4.

Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

The sedum’s flowers bloom pink and then mature to brick red. Zone 3.

 

Euphorbia Characias 

The wintergreen leaves stay crisp looking after the spring blooms are gone. Zone 7.

 

Senecio Greyi

The silver leaves make this a beautiful evergreen that will blend with everything. Zone 8.

 

All of these plants will be attractive as a single specimen or in a group planting with the tallest plants in the back and the lower plants in the front! It is always nice to have plants and flowers that continue to be beautiful in Autumn.

Trees and Shrubs October 10, 2006

If you had any plans to start adding trees and shrubs to your landscape, now is the time to do it.

Why?

As the top of the plant starts to go dormant, the root system can now fully “concentrate” on it’s own growth thus ensuring the strength of the tree or shrub. If the roots are strong, the rest of the tree/shrub will follow suit.

How?

Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball, but 2-3 times wider. There’s no need to add any fertilizer, so just return the original soil firm, and water well. Make sure to mulch 3-4 inches deep around the plant keeping the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk.

Now is also a good time to fertilize any existing trees and shrubs in your landscape in order to maintain growth and health for the coming winter season. Make sure you water them well, and replenish the mulch.

More Winterization Info… October 8, 2006

In response to our loyal reader’s request here is what we found out for ya’.

Winterize your perennial garden by removing any dead flowers or foliage in autumn. After a hard freeze, cut back all stems to ground level and add extra mulch. This would be applicable to perennials such as hostas, phlox, iris, anemone, cranesbill, etc.

Some perennials, such as wax begonia, zonal geraniums, alstromeria, and calla lily are not hardy and must be grown as annuals in cold climates. But they will return year after year in hot areas.

Ease up watering in the autumn when it comes to shrubs and azaleas. Water induces new growth, which may not harden off before the first freeze. As mentioned above, prune away dead foliage and flowers as well as mulch around the base of the plant.

Winterization For Roses October 8, 2006

Prune any weak, damaged or diseased branches off of the rose bush. Also rake any dead leaves around the base of the plant. If leaves are left around the base of the rose they may harbor disease spores or insect eggs and larvae.

If you own a rose tree you may need a winter sleeve. Tree roses are actually rose bushes grafted onto long rootstock trunks. To protect the graft union over the winter cut off the sleeve of an old sweater or sweatshirt. Prune back the rose’s top growth in late fall so that you can slip the sleeve over the branches and around the graft union on the trunk below. Then stuff the sleeve with peat moss, dry leaves, or straw for insulation; tie a plastic bag over it to keep out ice and snow. Remove the sleeve in early spring.