Sensational Seasons

Seasonal Hints and Tips for the Every-Day Gardener and Crafter

Orchid Care October 31, 2006

Filed under: General — lifelemons @ 7:51 pm

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I sometimes get the impression that people feel orchids are very fussy and hard to grow. I thought I would share some basic orchid care tips incase you have/want one for yourself. 

Light and Ventilation:
Most cultivated orchids can be grown in a sunny window or under lights. Either plant lights or a combination of cool white (fluorescent) and warm white will do. Many orchid enthusiasts grow their plants in or near a window with supplemental lighting. Orchids need humidity levels of 45-65%, easily obtained on pebble trays. Fill a tray with stones and water. Set the plants on the stones so that the pot bottoms rest just above the water line. Misting on sunny days will help, just be sure that plants are dry by evening. Orchids do best with good ventilation, as do most house plants. You could use a small fan to provide extra ventilation if needed.

Water:
Orchids need good drainage and should be watered only when dry. Many orchids have pseudobulbs which store water like succulents and cactus. Orchids with pseudobulbs (such as Cattleyas) should go totally dry between watering. Orchids without pseudobulbs (such as phalaenopsis, vandas, and paphiopedilums) should be watered when moderately dry. Orchids use more water when they are actively growing. As with all house plants, water the orchid until water is flowing from the bottom of the pot. When watering orchids, use water that is warm or room temperature. Feeding every other watering is suggested at a rate of 1/4 tsp. per gallon for most orchids. Plants that are actively growing should be fed 20-20-20. Plants that are completing their new growth should be fed 10-30-20 (high in phosphorus and potassium).

Orchids require different light intensities and indoor (winter)  :
Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums require filtered sun or bright indirect light in winter, shade in summer, and night temperatures of 60-65° F and most of the Cattleyas alliance (Laelia, Sophronitis, etc.) require at least 1/2 day full sun in the winter months, filtered sun during the summer, and a night temp. of 55-60°.

Vandas require a south window and a night temp. of 55-65°. Cymbidiums require as much sun as possible and night temperatures of 50-58°, providing their flower spikes are set. Orchids grow best when summered outdoors. Move all plants out under shade in mid-May. Cymbidiums and Vandas should be gradually moved to a spot where they will receive all but the hot midday sun. They will tolerate even that by late August.

Cattleyas should be gradually moved to receive almost as much sun. Hang them where leaves will shade them at midday. Keep Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilums suspended in total shade. Bring phals and paphs in after they have received at least two weeks of 50° night temperatures in autumn, Cattleyas after 45-50°, and cymbidiums 35° F.

My personal experience with orchids are that they are very hardy. I have mine sitting in a window and I water then once a week and every two weeks with fertilizer in the water. I currently have five orchids and haven’t killed one yet. My mother who has the black thumb of death and hasn’t killed her orchids (2) yet. Trust me, if she can grow one anyone can!

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Funny Faces October 25, 2006

Filed under: Crafting - Autumn — fancythis @ 2:48 pm

With Halloween just around the corner, I’m sure many of you have already purchased pumpkins for carving. Especially those of you with children.

Carving faces into pumpkins was definitely one of my favorite activities as a child. Being the traditionalist that I am, I would always carve the standard face onto the pumpkin. Something along this line:

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Anymore, I see so many different creative faces that people carve into pumpkins. It’s like a form of art!

While browsing the internet today (instead of working, of course!) I found this neat site that has instructions and patterns to use for carving your little piece of art. It even gives the history of jack-o-lanterns. How about that?!

Happy Carving Everyone!

 

Great Autumn Color! October 13, 2006

Filed under: Gardening - Autumn — lifelemons @ 7:37 pm

Here are a few plants that will give your garden great Autumn color!

Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’)  

The plumes of this ornamental grass appear in summer and keep going for months. Winter Hardy in Zone 5 and warmer.

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Aster ‘Alma Potschke’

Beautiful Red flowers on an extremely hardy plant! Zone 4.

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Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

The sedum’s flowers bloom pink and then mature to brick red. Zone 3.

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Euphorbia Characias 

The wintergreen leaves stay crisp looking after the spring blooms are gone. Zone 7.

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Senecio Greyi

The silver leaves make this a beautiful evergreen that will blend with everything. Zone 8.

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All of these plants will be attractive as a single specimen or in a group planting with the tallest plants in the back and the lower plants in the front! It is always nice to have plants and flowers that continue to be beautiful in Autumn.

 

Trees and Shrubs October 10, 2006

Filed under: Gardening - Autumn — fancythis @ 9:27 am

If you had any plans to start adding trees and shrubs to your landscape, now is the time to do it.

Why?

As the top of the plant starts to go dormant, the root system can now fully “concentrate” on it’s own growth thus ensuring the strength of the tree or shrub. If the roots are strong, the rest of the tree/shrub will follow suit.

How?

Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball, but 2-3 times wider. There’s no need to add any fertilizer, so just return the original soil firm, and water well. Make sure to mulch 3-4 inches deep around the plant keeping the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk.

Now is also a good time to fertilize any existing trees and shrubs in your landscape in order to maintain growth and health for the coming winter season. Make sure you water them well, and replenish the mulch.

 

More Winterization Info… October 8, 2006

Filed under: Gardening - Autumn, Gardening - Winter — lifelemons @ 11:47 pm

In response to our loyal reader’s request here is what we found out for ya’.

Winterize your perennial garden by removing any dead flowers or foliage in autumn. After a hard freeze, cut back all stems to ground level and add extra mulch. This would be applicable to perennials such as hostas, phlox, iris, anemone, cranesbill, etc.

Some perennials, such as wax begonia, zonal geraniums, alstromeria, and calla lily are not hardy and must be grown as annuals in cold climates. But they will return year after year in hot areas.

Ease up watering in the autumn when it comes to shrubs and azaleas. Water induces new growth, which may not harden off before the first freeze. As mentioned above, prune away dead foliage and flowers as well as mulch around the base of the plant.

 

Winterization For Roses October 8, 2006

Filed under: Roses — lifelemons @ 9:18 am

Prune any weak, damaged or diseased branches off of the rose bush. Also rake any dead leaves around the base of the plant. If leaves are left around the base of the rose they may harbor disease spores or insect eggs and larvae.

If you own a rose tree you may need a winter sleeve. Tree roses are actually rose bushes grafted onto long rootstock trunks. To protect the graft union over the winter cut off the sleeve of an old sweater or sweatshirt. Prune back the rose’s top growth in late fall so that you can slip the sleeve over the branches and around the graft union on the trunk below. Then stuff the sleeve with peat moss, dry leaves, or straw for insulation; tie a plastic bag over it to keep out ice and snow. Remove the sleeve in early spring.

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‘Tis the Season to be…..Raking October 6, 2006

Filed under: Crafting - Autumn — fancythis @ 11:00 pm

We all hate doing it. Whether your yard is large or small, that task of raking up those autumn leaves is one that looms, and one that we all try to avoid.

Why not turn it into a fun craft for the kids?

Of course, you’re going to rake up many more leaves than you’ll need for this fun little craft, but it’ll be a rest well deserved after an afternoon of hard work.

Fall Door Hanger 

What You’ll Need:

-An assortment of leaves

-Scissors

-Glue

-Fall colored card stock

-Raffia

-Brown or Black Marker

Instructions:

Cut out the shape of a door hanger from your card stock. Take your assortment of leaves and glue them to the door hanger leaving enough space for a special fall message. Make a small double bow out of a piece of raffia and glue to the bottom of the hanger. Use your dark colored marker to write “Fall is in the Air”.

Once completed, it should look something like this:

Since you used your REAL leaves though, it makes it much more authentic.

Enjoy!

 

Planting Zones October 6, 2006

Filed under: General — lifelemons @ 10:30 pm

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In case your wondering what Zone you live in.

Listed above is a map and a key that will tell you which Planting Zone you live in.

This will be helpful in the selection of plants and flowers for your garden bed. On packages of bulbs and flower pots you will see a zone number that will tell you if the plant you are choosing is hardy for the climate that you live in. For example I live in Zone 7A this indicates to me that any plant material I chose that is in this zone is hardy for my area.

I hope you will find this to be helpful!

 

It’s That Time Again! October 6, 2006

Filed under: Gardening - Autumn, Gardening - Spring — lifelemons @ 10:14 pm

As some of you may know, it is time again to plant spring bulbs!

You should always plant spring flowering bulbs in the fall. This way they will establish faster and bloom earlier. For the best effect, plant bulbs in groups or gently toss a handful on the ground and plant them where they land. This method of planting will provide a more naturalistic look for your garden bed. 

When planting, a good rule of thumb is to make sure the bulb is fully touching the bottom of the hole and the hole should be twice the depth of the bulb.  Typically you should plant your spring flowering bulbs in mid-September to mid-October.

Examples of a Spring-Flowering Bulb would include:

  • Tulips
  • Daffodils
  • Hyacinth
  • Some Varieties of Gladiolus
  • Crocus
  • Iris
  • Peonies
  • Snowdrops
  • Ivory Bells
  • Lily Of The Valley
  • Muscari (Grape Hyacinths)
  • Narcissus
  • Allium

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A good example of a cluster planting: Allium, Tulips and Hyacinths.

Happy Planting!

-Lemons

 

Welcome! October 6, 2006

Filed under: General — fancythis @ 12:27 pm

I think it’s about time lemons and I combined our horticultural/floral knowledge into a blog.

There’s a lot of stuff crammed in our brains, and it’s only right to share it with the world.

Enjoy!